Originally published in Behind the Chair
On just about every “my favorite things in the world” list, chocolate makes the cut. It’s rich, it’s decadent, it somehow seems to soothe jangled nerves and brightens moods with ease. So if you were to offer up a chocolate balayage approach to your brunette clients—one of the season’s hottest trends—there will probably be plenty of takers! George Papanikolas, Joico Celebrity Spokesperson, along with colorist Tracey Cunningham, Redken’s Creative Consultant for Color, share some of their favorite chocolate balayage formulas and techniques.
Megan Fox’s Chocolate Caramel Ombré
“We’re seeing lots of dark, rich, deep chocolate haircolor refreshed with dimensional tones of truffle and auburn this season,” confirms George. “It’s a sexy, noticeable look, but it’s not a drastic color change.”
“When it comes to highlighting brunettes,” says George, ” a little goes a long way. Highlight strategically and tailor your color to the haircut. If the hair is heavily layered, you’ll need to apply more highlights. But with long layers like Megan’s, fewer highlighted sections will look more natural.”
Megan’s Color Formulas
Base/Regrowth: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome 1/2 N4 + 1/2 G6 + Activator
Balayage Highlights: Joico VeroLight + 40-volume developer
Gloss: Joico Vero K-PAK Chrome 1/2 A7 + 1/2 A9 + Activator
Application Steps
- Apply the retouch formula to regrowth. Process, shampoo and dry the hair.
- Create a horseshoe-shaped parting from temple to temple and clip away the top section.
- Just below the parting in the center back, create a 3-inch subsection. Apply the lightener in two fine streaks on each side of the subsection from roots to midlengths, leaving the center free of lightener. At the center of the subsection, begin to connect the two fine streaks with lightener, gradually filing in the section as work progresses to the ends. The lightener will sit on the section in a v-shape.
- Continue to work around the horseshoe parting in this manner from side to side.
- Cover the highlighted sections with cotton and release the top section.
- Continue to apply highlights to 3-inch subsections all around the hairline and add a few accent pieces off of the natural parting. The application should be fine at the roots and become gradually heavier as the application progresses down the midshafts to the ends.
- Lift the hair to a golden honey shade. Rinse and towel-dry.
- Apply the gloss formula roots to ends, process five minutes, rinse, shampoo, condition and style.
Tip: “Limit the number of balayage pieces—it only takes a few to accent the haircut,” says George. “That means there should be a few lighter tips on the layers, with a few accents on the part and around the face.”
Minka Kelly’s Chocolate Hazelnut Ombré & Jessicas Biel’s Chocolate Latte Ombré
Arguably, actress Jessica Biel put the brunette ombre look on the map, and the rich chocolate goodness has been spotted on several celebs this season. A her Meche Salon in Beverly Hills, Tracey tends to the color of many of Hollywood’s highest profile celebrities, including Biel and Kelly. Here are her strategies for the two brunette bombshells.
Minka’s Color Formulas
“Minka is a natural blonde so I have to darken her roots,” says Tracey.
Base: Redken Chromatics equal parts 5N + 6Aa + 10-volume developer
Balayage Highlights: Lightener + 40-volume developer
Gloss: Redken Shades EQ 07C +6G
Jessica’s Color Formulas
Base: Redken Shades EQ Cream 1 tube 5WN + 1/4 tube 6BC + activator
Balayage Highlights: Lightener + 40-volume developer
Gloss: Redken Shades EQ 076 + 08C +09AA
Tracey’s How-To
Sectioning
1. Create a vertical parting that extends from the top of the left ear to the high point of the head on each side.
2. Create a diagonal forward parting that extends from the high point of the head to the temple on each side.
3. Create a vertical parting from the high point of the head that extends along the center back. Create a diagonal parting that extends from two inches above the ear to the center back parting on each side.
Application
- Starting in front of the left ear, place a 1/4-inch diagonal back slice onto a foil. Apply the highlight formula to the midshaft and carry it out to the ends. Without adding more product, blur the highlight formula towards the regrowth area to softly blend. Apply the base formula and gently blur it into the midshafts. Cover with foil. Continue to release 1/4-inch slices and repeat the application method. Complete the section and repeat on the opposite side.
- From the top left section, place a 1/4-inch diagonal forward slice onto a foil. Using the same application methods, apply both formulas. Continue to drop down sections and overdirect the sections back. Repeat on the opposite side.
- Starting in the back left nape, place a 1/4-inch diagonal back slice on foil. Use the same application method and complete the section. Repeat on the opposite side.
- Complete the top crown sections with the same application methods and formulas, overdirecting to opposite diagonal sections. Process to desired level, shampoo, apply the gloss formula roots to ends and process for five minutes. Shampoo, condition and style.